Discovering the Real Hà Giang: An Expedition on Two Wheels
Ha Giang is a province in northern Vietnam that shares a border with southern China. It is known as Vietnam’s final frontier. In recent years, a growing attraction is taking a motorcycle journey on what is known as the Ha Giang Loop. The four-day motorcycle trip is a thrilling adventure through dramatic mountain ranges, lush valleys, and a look into the culture of one of the most remote regions of Vietnam.
It is known to be both beautiful and dangerous. Ask any backpacker in Vietnam, “Have you done the Ha Giang Loop?” and you’ll get met with an array of emotions; from wonder and excitement to exhaustion, and sometimes just a nod to a cast or bandages. A common response is, “It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever done in my life”. After experiencing it for myself, I have to agree.
There are many different tour groups to book your trip with, but the tour company I chose to go with is called Flipside Vietnam. They are determined to show travelers the “True North”, off the beaten path. You can drive a motorbike yourself or take an easy rider. Easy riders are locals to the Ha Giang Region and they know the roads, trails, and landscape like the back of their hands. Riding with a local allowed me to take in the unmatched beauty of the journey.
We started out in Hanoi and were picked up from the hostel by a bus that took us on an 8-hour trip to Ha Giang, filled with random stops, constant honking, and typical Vietnam driving; which is to say it was an adventure unto itself. We arrived after dark around 11 pm, so we had no idea what to expect when the sun came up. Setting out of the hostel gates on day one led to immediate views of lush jungle, flowing green rivers, banana trees, and palms that flanked the road.
There was an air of excitement amongst the group as we cruised toward the mountains. Nothing but the open road, the hum of motorbikes, and the question of what is to come. Each twist and turn of the road led to breathtaking mountains, valleys, rice paddies, rivers, caves, and villages. The local culture was experienced in the purest way possible; by being immersed in a world few tourists ever get a chance to see.
Sun-bleached blacktop snaked across the landscape and thick clouds began to roll across the sky, creating an atmosphere of wonder and adventure. Towering limestone mountains peaked through the clouds above. The green valleys below are cloaked by vibrant rice terraces; a patchwork of colors that changes with the season. Ominous dark clouds in one valley give way to gorgeous sun and heat in the next: perfect for stopping and swimming in snowmelt waterfalls.
Each village we pass through is different and for each meal we stop to eat at a restaurant. The food is fresh and local, served family style. The group gathers in small chairs around a table covered with bowls and platters, graciously provided by local cooks with smiling faces. The chatter, some in English some in Vietnamese, dies down as rice is scooped into bowls. We go about grabbing greens, grilled meats, vegetables, noodles, and fruits with our chopsticks. At one stop we even met a group of Vietnam war veterans who took shots of happy water with us, an incredibly friendly gesture. There is no short supply of happy water, a rice liquor, on the Ha Giang Loop. Happy water and karaoke are classic staples each night and a great way to make friends with your tour group and the locals.
Waking up each morning to vibrant rice paddies surrounding the valleys was a literal breath of fresh air. No cars, no tourists, no service. Just the magnificent landscape and the open road. The rich greens were dotted by tiny villages and local people dressed in a rainbow of colors with baskets on their backs, working in the fields or passing by on scooters. You never know what you will see when you come around a bend: a rushing waterfall, a group of women in their conical hats harvesting rice, a herd of water buffalo, or Indigenous children running up to wave at the bikes and smack high fives to the riders if they are brave enough.
We rode along steep cliffs on dirt paths only wide enough for one motorbike at a time. Rice terraces of various shades of emerald and olive were cut into the hills. Corn was planted down the sides of mountains in areas so steep I wouldn’t even try to walk down, yet the people in this region farm it.
Each time we stopped there was an incredible experience waiting. At one homestay we took bamboo rafts up a river to where it rushed from a cave. We jumped in and swam across the current, boulder to boulder to the mouth of the cave. At another stop, explored a huge cave system that was used as a military base at one point in time.
One of the most famous destinations on the Ha Giang Loop is called the Ma Pi Leng Pass. Twist around rocky curves as you gain elevation and suddenly, the road opens up to an incredible view. Standing on the side of a bend in the road, the mountains and valley stretch out beneath you, with a large river flowing through it.
As we continued north on the loop, the scenery began to look remarkably like something you may have seen in a National Geographic documentary. This is because the loop nears the border of southern China. The lush shades of jade plants against black stone create a gorgeous contrast. The region itself holds a deep and ancient beauty where nature shows off its awe-inspiring creations.
One night we stayed at a glamping spot where I could see the border of China lit up against the mountainside from my tent. It was such a surreal moment. I remember thinking, “Wow, I’m really here, doing this right now”.
The further we traveled, the more remote the villages became, and the more traditional lifestyle the people lived. Some areas are without access to clean water, medical supplies, or consistent education. Part of Flipside’s contribution to the community is an outreach program that brings supplies like food, shoes, and medicine to remote ethnic groups. We also visited a school where they had installed a water filtration system and brought toys to children who often end up dropping out of school to work on the farm and don’t get the chance to just be kids.
My journey through the Ha Giang Loop became more than just a road trip. It was an incredible expedition that affirmed my love for travel and experiencing all it has to offer. Making people smile and offering help to those in need is what makes life’s experiences truly amazing. You become disconnected from the outside world and end up becoming more connected with yourself. After spending 4 days riding, laughing, drinking, and singing with the local guides, it was really heartbreaking to leave. But I know I gained new friends and a new perspective. I had my breath taken away and had the true freedom of experiencing something so raw and beautiful with my eyes wide open.
Article by Katie Schreffler
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